Pumpkin Pie Cheesecake

Made annually in honor of the birthday of a special friend, this recipe is a blend of the "perfect pumpkin pie" and "perfect cheesecake" recipes originally published in Cook's Illustrated magazine, with some influence from the Libby's company's recipe for pumpkin cheesecake. I'll tell you about the variations I've tried on this recipe, which will help you to modify it to your own tastes.

Note: When Cook's Illustrated talks about a "perfect cheesecake," they mean not only one that tastes swell but also a cheesecake that won't crack across the top while baking. Achieving a non-cracked cheesecake requires extra effort, some special equipment, and some risk that the entire recipe will fail (for reasons that will become obvious as we proceed). Over the years, I've learned to live with a cracked cheesecake! However, I'll include information on how to achieve the non-cracked type for those who want it.

EQUIPMENT
You'll need a nine-inch springform pan or other pan suitable for making cheesecake. To make the crack-free version, you'll also need a roll of the widest possible heavy-duty aluminum foil and a roasting pan large enough to hold your springform pan. (The largest size of disposable aluminum turkey roasting pan will work.)

PREPARING THE PAN
This step is required only if you're going to try for uncracked cheesecake, which must be cooked in a water bath. In other words, the pan with the cheesecake in it has to be cooked inside of another pan that contains hot water. (This is why you need that giant roasting pan.)

Skip the following unless you're determined to have a fully perfect cheesecake: Tear off a big piece of aluminum foil. Remove the bottom of the springform pan and put it in the middle of the foil, top down. Pull the foil back over the edges of the pan bottom. Put the bottom back in the springform pan (still covered with foil). Close the pan and pull the foil up around the edges of the pan. The goal is to make the pain watertight. Make absolutely sure there are no punctures in the foil, or other ways it could leak, because if the water reaches the cheesecake you'll end up with a waterlogged cheesecake. (This is the risky bit.) Place springform pan in large roasting pan and set aside.

PREPARING THE OVEN
Adjust oven rack to middle position and set oven to 325 degrees.

CRUST
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted
3 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs

Brush melted butter all over the bottom and halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Add graham cracker crumbs and shake the pan to coat well with crumbs (which will stick to the butter).

FILLING

1 3/4 cup pumpkin puree
1 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger (optional)
1 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon (or to taste)
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg (optional)
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves (optional)
1/2 teasoon salt (or to taste)
1 1/2 pounds (3 packages) Philadelphia brand or other mass produced cream cheese. Cook's Illustrated warns against using fresh or artisan-made cream cheese. Apparently the binders in commercial cream cheese make a better cheesecake. Creamcheese should be at room temperature.
3 tablespoons heavy cream
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup light brown sugar, packed
4 eggs
2 teaspoons vanilla extract

With heavy duty electric mixer (I use a Kitchen Aid style), beat cream cheese until smooth. Be sure you do this thoroughly, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl, or you will end up with lumps of cream cheese in your cheesecake. Gradually add sugars and beat on medium speed until sugar dissolves, about three minutes. Again, be thorough and scrape down the sides and bottom of bowl. Add eggs one at a time. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl every time an egg is added. Add vanilla extract and beat until just incorporated.

Stir sour cream and heavy cream into cooled pumpkin mixture. Now stir in spices: Ginger, cloves, and nutmeg give the cheesecake a more "pumpkin pie" flavor, but if you don't care for spicy cheesecake you can reduce the quantities or just use cinnamon alone.

Stir the pumpkin mixture into the cream cheese mixture. Pour this batter into the prepared pan. Place the pan (or the pan in the roasting pan) on the oven rack.

If you're going to try for crack-free cheesecake, pour boiling water into the roasting pan surrounding (but not into!) the springform pan. The water should go about halfway up the sides of the springform pan.

Bake until the perimeter of the cake is set but the center jiggles when the pan is tapped, about 55 to 60 minutes. Turn off the heat and leave the oven door ajar for an hour or longer. (The more slowly the cheesecake cools, the less it will crack.) Remove the springform pan from the oven. (Remove from water bath if using.) Set it on a wire rack. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least four hours.

TOPPING (optional)

1 1/4 cups heavy cream
3 tablespoons confectioner's sugar
1 tablespoon brandy

Just like the cheesecake, this is best made the day before you plan to serve it. Beat whipping cream until it forms soft peaks. Still beating, gradually add confectioner's sugar, then brandy. Refrigerate until used.

Preparing a salad

According to an ancient maxim, it takes four people to successfully prepare a salad:

A sage who will wisely ration the salt, pepper, and mustard.

A miser who will parsimoniously deal out the vinegar.

A generous person who will give forth in abundance the oil.

A maniac who will mix the whole into a flavorful combination.

Courtesy of the Herbfarm restaurant, which used to be located in Fall City, Washington, here is an alternative way to make a simple but elegant green salad:

Base greens: arugula, chick weed, chicory, choi (bok and pak), corn salad, cress, edible chrysanthemum, dandelion greens, endive, kale, lamb’s quarter, lettuces, miner’s lettuce, mustards, orach, purslane, shepherd’s purse, spinach, violet leaves, watercress

Herbs: basil, caraway, chervil, chives, cilantro (coriander), dill, fennel, Good King Henry, lemon balm, lovage, marjoram, mint, parsley (curly & flat), rosemary (small amount chopped very fine), salad burnet, sorrel, sweet cicely, tarragon)

Edible flowers: arugula, borage (whole flower), tuberous begonias (petals and stems), calendula (petals), chives (whole or petals), chrysanthemums (petals), day lily (flower or petal), English daisies (petals), scented geraniums, honeysuckles, lilacs (petals), marigolds (‘Lemon Gem’), nasturtium (flower), pansies (flower or petal), peas (not sweet peas), pinks (whole or petals), roses (petals), tulips (petals or whole and stuffed), violas (whole flower)

The bulk of the salad should come from base greens. Add additional vegetables if desired, though a charming green salad can be made with greens alone. Toss with salad dressing, being careful not to drown the salad. Add salt and pepper to taste. Dress with herbs and edible flowers.